In the Heart of Jaintia Hills: A Journey Through Valleys, Temples, and Turmeric

The road to the Jaintia Hills felt like slipping into another world—where mist curls over green valleys and waterfalls tumble into turquoise pools. My first stop, the Krang Suri waterfalls, was nothing short of breathtaking. As the spray touched my face, I thought of how nature here isn’t just scenery—it’s an experience.

A short drive away, the Nartiang Devi Temple and the towering monoliths reminded me that this land is as rich in history as it is in beauty. Stones, temples, and traditions stand here not as relics, but as living stories.

And yet, what lingers with me most from this journey wasn’t a waterfall or a monument, but something humbler: a spice that I got introduced to. Hidden in these hills is Lakadong turmeric, a variety unlike any other. Locals will proudly tell you that its curcumin content—responsible for turmeric’s golden hue and healing properties—is nearly three times higher than ordinary turmeric. One farmer I met joked that people buy it once for the health benefits, and keep coming back for the taste. Another woman, tending her fields, said Lakadong turmeric had given her not just income, but dignity—“This crop sends my children to school,” she smiled.

Carrying a packet home, I realized it wasn’t just turmeric I held, but a story, a piece of our culinary heritage. A story of women farmers transforming tradition into opportunity. A story of a humble spice from the Laskhein block finding its way to kitchens and wellness circles across the world.

As the sun dipped behind the Jaintia Hills, I felt the threads of the day come together—waterfalls, worship, history, and a golden spice that carries within it the promise of health and empowerment. The hills are more than a destination; they’re a reminder that sometimes the most extraordinary treasures grow quietly, waiting for us to notice.